When the leakage switch is connected, connect the upper line and the lower line. Pay attention to the position of the phase line (commonly known as the live line) and the neutral line. Do not connect the mark on the leakage switch. If there is no mark, the left side is connected to the phase line. . It is important to note that the neutral wire taken by the electrical equipment cannot be taken from the upper end of the leakage switch, and part of it is taken from the lower end of the leakage switch. If this is done, the leakage switch will not close. To put it another way, if you use the phase line that passes through the leakage switch, you need to use the zero line that passes through the leakage switch. The power-operated leakage switch is lightly pressed by the above test button, and the leakage switch should be immediately tripped, and then pressed once a month to confirm that the leakage protection function of the leakage switch is effective. Note: Pressing the test button frequently during power-on will affect the service life of the switch.
The method of testing whether the leakage switch is effective is generally sufficient to detect whether the leakage is caused by the test button. The principle of the leakage protector is to detect whether the alternating current from the live line to the neutral line is consistent to determine whether the action trips.
There are safe test methods here, but only if there is a ground wire at home:
Find a three-pin socket and connect a resistor, capacitor (series), and the other end to the ground pin on the L (standard electrician L fire line) symbol. Since the current goes through the ground, the current input by the leakage protector is greater than the current returned by the zero line, so the action, trip!
The capacitor can be used as a capacitor on the fan, and the resistor is selected from a one-watt resistor of 10 ohms or more. After the completion, the junction of the resistor and the capacitor is wrapped with an insulating tape.
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